Champagne barrels along the deep, cool cellars of the Charles Fourny estate in Vertus, France. Fourny says that President Trump’s approaching rates have taken away his trust in the American market.
Rebecca Rosman for NPR
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Rebecca Rosman for NPR
Vertus, France walking through the vineyard of his family, champagne maker of the fifth generation Charles Fourny runs his hand over Chardonnay-Wijnstokken that were planted by his grandfather more than 70 years ago. Fourny has been saying his own for decades company Has familiar in a vital market: the United States.
In 2024, American consumers imported 26.9 million bottles of champagne, making the US the world’s largest champagne export market.
Shipments to the US accounted for 18% of Fourny’s export last year. But now he wonders if he can get dependent on the US
Even with President Trump 90-day break at ratesUncertainty about future trade policy has strengthened the long -term relationship between French champagne producers and American buyers.
For Fourny it is not just about the bottom line. It is about trust that feels increasingly vulnerable.
“We trust the [U.S.]Because we don’t know what will happen, “says Fourny.” More and more you have the impression that you are enemies. “
In recent months, the threats of the Trump government on European wine rates have repeatedly shifted, making producers and importers almost impossible to plan ahead.
Charles Fourny says that although export to the US has been good for 18% of his things in recent years, he is now looking for more “stable” markets, such as Brazil.
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“We spoke about 200%, then 20%… Maybe it will be 6,000%tomorrow!” Fourny jokes, shaking his head.
In March, President Trump drove the idea of drawing rates to 200% on the import of European wine. A few weeks later, on April 2, he disappointed that proposal to a rate of 20%. Than on April 9, the White House announced A 90-day delay, which means that the rates on the EU wine are temporarily reduced to 10%.
But that break is only temporary. After the 90 -day period, the rates can rise again, possibly back to 20%or even higher.
For Fourny, this unpredictable environment means that it is time to look beyond the American market, looking for stability in places like Brazil.
“We can’t wait for a decision,” says Fourny about the approaching rates. “We have a company to run and we have to perform to keep our company moving.”
A fragile ecosystem
The United States have long been the largest importer of Champagne and helps stimulate the growth of industry.
But on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean, American wine importers say that they also feel the pressure.
“It’s just a horrible kind of self -inflicted wound for American companies,” says Harmon Skurnik, one The New York -based importer and board member of the US Wine Trade Alliance.
In a sausage-case scenario, he says, wines from abroad can become more expensive and are more difficult to find in the American shelves. And American own soil wines cannot just fill in the gap.
“We can’t buy that much American wine, not to mention the fact that these products are simply not that fungic,” says Skurnik. “The French have a term called terroirWhich means that the wine reflects the place where it comes from. A French Chardonnay does not taste like an American Chardonnay. These products are unique. “
American winemakers, especially those in California, are also worried. They fear that tense distributors, weighed by the uncertainty around rates, could have less power to buy and sell domestic wine, which threatens their stability in the short term.
Wines grow on the estate of Charles Fourny in Vertus, France. According to Harmon Skurnik, an American wine importer, the unique terroir of the region, which includes factors such as land, makes wines irreplaceable.
Rebecca Rosman for NPR
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Not everyone mourns the shift.
In the heart of Épernay, the capital of the Champagne region, a group of American tourists who came to SIP was quickly supporting the rates.
“We tarifen a luxury item,” says Justin Fishman, a 29-year-old from Kansas City, Kan.
“Champagne is not something that everyone needs every day.”
Fishman’s friend Joseph Psyck, who comes from Kentucky, agrees.
Although his own favorite drink is not exactly influenced by rates.
“I’m going to drink what I want at home, whatever happens,” he says laughing. “Bourbon.”
Back on Fourny’s Estate in Vertus, he offers a bittersweet toast.
Fourny says he wants Trump to realize that this is all more than just about champagne.
“If you do that with a country, it’s not business … it’s a long -term relationship with people,” he says.
And once that has been disconnected, it might not be that easy to bottle it again.
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