TThe first time I saw a Pearly I was on a fairly empty Northern Line lunchtime train. As it screeched to a halt and the doors opened, an older gentleman appeared, head to toe in shiny buttons sewn into his black suit. I was fascinated by this man and his bold clothing choices and wanted to find out more about what this outfit represented.
I later learned that he was a member of the Pearl Kings and Queens.
At the center of the tradition of kings and queens is Henry Croft. Henry grew up in a Victorian orphanage in Somers Town and became a street sweeper and rat catcher. He grew close with the market traders, who were known for their community pride, rich Cockney slang and outfits studded with mother-of-pearl buttons. Inspired by her fashion and spirit of mutual aid, Henry designed a full suit elaborately decorated with pearl buttons to attract attention while raising money for the orphanage where he grew up.
Henry’s suit became iconic and so did he. Hospitals and charities everywhere London asked him to help them raise funds. Henry turned to market traders to meet demand. In 1875, the Pearly Kings and Queens were born, a network of 28 Pearly families – one for each London borough – who passed down the titles and responsibility of raising money for charity through generations.
Not everyone can become Pearly, the privilege of a title must be passed on or earned. Children are raised as shining princes or princesses and eventually take on their parents’ titles. Other family members such as cousins can also be given titles. In rare cases, a person from outside the family may join, but only if they have strong ties to the family can they be invited to be a “Mother of Pearl” and hold a title.
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Jackie Murphy, the radiant Queen of Hackney, leaves St-Martin-in-the-Fields after Thanksgiving
Once in the Pearlies, members make a lifelong commitment to raising money for charity. This is done through street fundraising and by hosting larger events such as the annual Harvest Festival held at St Martin in the Fields Church in Trafalgar Square.
The Pearlies in 2025 have moved with the times and now have a social media presence and a new generation of young pearls get through. Of course, there are also newly decorated suits in which everyone’s creativity comes to the fore.
As the Pearlies celebrate their 150th anniversary, I reached out to Ashleigh-Rose Harman, a younger member. She welcomed me to take photos of the pearl families.
As a photographer, I have spent the last decade focusing on how people find their own sense of belonging and identity. Whether that is so young hopeful matadors in Spainuntil Lowriders in Los Angeles. I have found that in all of these groups there is a sense of pride, respect for their history and a need to be part of something bigger than themselves.
I asked Ashleigh how important it was to engage with the beads. “It’s about having some connection to my history – my family has been part of the beading tradition for over 100 years. There’s something special about putting on buttons and knowing that I’m carrying on the work that members of my family have dedicated themselves to.”
“It’s also a really important part of London’s history and it feels great to be part of this diverse collection of stories. It’s also an enduring working class tradition that I never want to see disappear. It grew out of community and the responsibility to look after the people around you who need help. When I look at how many communities are struggling at the moment, I think Ethos is more relevant than ever.”
Over the course of the year I get to know many more pearls. I visit 98-year-old Phyllis Broadbent at her home in Clapton. When I arrive, she greets me dressed head to toe in her buttons and welcomes me into her immaculate home, which feels a bit like a 1960s time trap.
We talk about the history of beads and how she hopes the younger generation will carry on the traditions. Phyllis is the oldest member of the Pearlies and there is a 96 year age difference between her and the youngest members, Olive and Phoebe, the Princesses of Haggerston and Wembley, who are only two years old.
Since all generations are represented in the beads, I wonder how important it is that the beads span multiple generations.
“Like any family, it only works with a mix of experience, knowledge and energy. Each member of the club brings something important to the table that keeps it going. It is a very strange and at the same time incredibly special tradition to be part of and it would never be successful if there was an age limit.”
Ashleigh continues: “For me, the sight of these pearl girls in their 80s and 90s, still putting on their suits, doing the Lambeth walk and shaking collection tins shows that it is a tradition that really becomes part of one’s sanity. Then when I look at our little ones in their dresses at their pearl christenings, it is a look into the future and all the possibilities of what London can be. It is special.”
I get the impression that the Pearlies are essentially one big family, proud of their community and history and driven to help others in need.
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